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Adjusting Draw Weight
tyepsu

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Joined: 11 May 2005
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Location: Tioga County
Age: 35
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Last fall I dropped my draw weight a few pounds on a day when the rain and cold were making it hard to draw my normal weight. I was just curious if I adjust the weight back up but the distance between the top limb and the string and the bottom limb and string are not exactly the same will that effect the accuracy of the shots or do any damage to my bow? Also I have not changed my bow string in a few years but the last few seasons have not shot my bow a lot. How often does everyone else change their bow strings and is there a way to visually inspecting the string to see if it needs replacement?
Ghost

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Tye,

what kind of bow do u have?

Also..lowering your weight(lbs) should not effect your draw length.

And about your limbs...I would tighten them down till they can be tightin no more..then back out each limb with the same amount of turns with the limb bolt.

And your string...If its not frayed or has cut strings its ok..also..Go buy some string wax..that will bring your string back to life.

Make sure your cams are in "timing".

Paper tune your bow.

Do not torq your Bow when holding it..make sure the pressure of your grip is at the base of your thumb(palm) and have the tips of your fingers just lightly touching the Bow handle..Dont grip the Bow because that will cause you to torq the Bow which will cause you to release the arrow off the Bow at an angle.
tyepsu

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Joined: 11 May 2005
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I have a high country supreme bow. Thanks for the advice of setting the bow at its high limit then adjusting it down. That way I know both limbs are starting at the same point. I just wasnt sure if a slight difference in length makes a difference on accuracy? My string has very minor little fraying but I do treat it with bow wax every year. My bow had an adjustable draw weight from 55 to 70 and I have it sighted in at 62lbs but had to drop it to about 56 last fall that one day. I was so frustrated... That is the only time Ive ever had a hard time drawing.
renegade

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Tye - I'm not sure about the "tiller" measurement on the newer bows effecting accuracy, with single cam bows and such. But I will tell you that lowering, or raising for that matter, your draw weight WILL effect your accuracy. It changes your whole setup. It may not be so drastic with carbon arrows, which I'm not familiar with, but proper selection of aluminum shafts are based on arrow length, tip weight, and draw weight. Changing any of these can throw a properly tuned bow outta whack. But if the bow wasn't properly tuned to it's potential, theoretically I guess you could make it better, but then once you raise the weight your back to square one. There is some lee-way there and paper testing will tell the story.
What kind/size of arrows are you shooting? what arrow length? What broadhead weight?

I just changed my bow string but it was 8 years old and it wasn't shot for the last 5. I believe the Dacron strings did stretch some but not the Fast Flight strings. Ron Beasom could probably verify that better. Waxing a string is like waxing a car. The paint will hold up much longer. Keep it well waxed. String life? I'd say pretty long if well kept and not of the stretchable type.
tyepsu

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Joined: 11 May 2005
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Well for hunting I use 28 and a half inch gold tip hunter carbon arrows with 125 grain 3 blade muzzy broadheads. When I sighted in my bow and tuned it that was at 62 lbs so if I crank the weight all the way up on both limbs then adjust them back down so the draw is 62lbs again shouldnt the pins still be on? What exactly does "tiller" mean? Im guessing that is the distance between where the lims connect to the raiser of the bow and the string? Is that correct? Do I need a t-square to measure that distance so it is exactly the same for the top and bottom limbs?
renegade

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With that setup, you should be using "spine group 5" arrows, according to Gold Tip's sizing chart. If you drop it to 56 lbs. that could put you into "group 4". Your kind of on the borderline. The only way then to really tell it's effect is to paper tune. Find out which spine group arrow you have.

But then, all of this depends on how accurate and consistant you shoot your bow. We may be splitting hairs here and it's not like your competing. Have you target shot your bow after making the weight change? I would try shooting for bull at various distance and if you do good and are pretty confident you'll hit what your aiming at, then it's effect is probably making little difference to your shooting.
Did changing the weight make a difference? I'd say it most likely did. But it may be a negligible amount.

Tiller is the distance from the limb pocket, where the limb intersects the riser, out to the string at a 90 degree (perpendicular) angle. So yes you are correct about that and also how it's measured. I believe about a quarter inch difference is exceptable.
tyepsu

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Well dropping the weight ,made very little difference in arrow flight within 20 yards. I am mainly concerned if I have to make a shot on a deer at 30 yards. I am going to adjust my weight tomorrow night when I get back to Pa and then take it to the archery shop and range and shoot for a while. I am very confident I can kill any deer from 25 yards out and in after shooting for a little while. I am glad I have sunday to fine tooth everything. Im not sure what sizing group my arrows are. They are what the archery shop owner recommended for my draw weight, length, and weight of broadhead combination. I think somewhere in the 58 to 60 lbs draw weight is where I will set my bow. After looking at that chart I think they are size 4 arrows. If I am right on the line of arrow size is it usually better to go with a little lighter or heavier arrow?
renegade

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Six of one, half a dozen of the other. It could probably go either way and the only real way to tell is to paper tune it and find out the results based on arrow flight. Good luck.


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