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Flintlock ammo and load?
Cityhunter

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Joined: 02 Nov 2009
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Location: Pittsburgh, PA

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I just purchased a Traditions Pa Pellet (sidelock) flintlock, .50 caliber. This particular rifle, although looks like a traditional frlintlock, has a breach plug, rifled barrel which accepts loose black powder or pellets. And also uses ball or sabot ammo. I haven't fired it yet. And I have a little experience with an inline which I used 250 grain TC sabot ammo and 3 pellets (150 grains) of Triple 7. I intend to try this same load in the flintlock. But I also purchased Goex 3F and 4 F black powder. 3F for the barrel. And 4 F for the pan. This was recommended by a friend. Any suggestions oor comments about this powder?
Also, I am going to use Goex and the TC sabot rounds, simply because the Goex is much cheaper than the Triple 7 pellets. Lastly, what ball and patch would you suggest?

Any other loads I should consider?

Also, any accessories anybody would suggest? I bought all the typical stuff: Pan primer, little bush for the pan, pick for the hole from the pan to the barrel, powder measure. Anything else anyone can suggest?

Thanks ahead of time. I appreciate it.
Re: Flintlock ammo and load?
RSB

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[quote="Cityhunter"]I just purchased a Traditions Pa Pellet (sidelock) flintlock, .50 caliber. This particular rifle, although looks like a traditional frlintlock, has a breach plug, rifled barrel which accepts loose black powder or pellets. And also uses ball or sabot ammo. I haven't fired it yet. And I have a little experience with an inline which I used 250 grain TC sabot ammo and 3 pellets (150 grains) of Triple 7. I intend to try this same load in the flintlock. But I also purchased Goex 3F and 4 F black powder. 3F for the barrel. And 4 F for the pan. This was recommended by a friend. Any suggestions oor comments about this powder?
Also, I am going to use Goex and the TC sabot rounds, simply because the Goex is much cheaper than the Triple 7 pellets. Lastly, what ball and patch would you suggest?

Any other loads I should consider?

Also, any accessories anybody would suggest? I bought all the typical stuff: Pan primer, little bush for the pan, pick for the hole from the pan to the barrel, powder measure. Anything else anyone can suggest?

Thanks ahead of time. I appreciate it.[/quote]


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I use the FFg Pirodex (spelling ?) powder because it is cleaner burning and makes cleaning the gun easier. It shoots patched round balls great but I am shooting a Hawken 1:66 twist barrel. Most pre-lubed patches for a 50 caliber will be fine.The twist in the barrel will have a major influence on what bullets or balls will group best for you.

Donít forget to get good cleaning materials including a patch worm for when you loose a patch in the barrel, which seems to happen pretty often. Get some extra flints, but not all flints are equal either, so you have to do some experimenting to find out what produces the best spark for your gun.

Good luck!

Dick Bodenhorn


Last edited by RSB on Sun Jan 02, 2011 11:13 am; edited 1 time in total
oldzimm

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Cityhunter, Dick gave you some good advice. I might add that you should buy a steel range rod to load with at the range and to keep in your truck when hunting (it will save you some broken ramrods). You might also want to purchase a patch worm jag to get a loose patch out of your barrel and a bullet pulling jag for those times when you forget to put powder down the barrel (believe me if you shoot often enough, it will happen). These items you won't use all the time, but when you need them you will be glad you had them, it might save a day of hunting for you.

Like Dick said, the twist in your rifling will determine what bullet you should use, 1 in 66 twist is round ball, 1 in 48 can take round ball or sabot, anything less then 48 is for sabot.

What surprised me is you wanting to use 150 gr's of powder, believe me you don't need to use that much, you would be shooting most of your powder out the barrel. You would be wasting powder and if you cut your charge in half, you will be getting more shot per pound of powder.

I shoot a 50 Cal., Pa Longrifle and I shoot a patched round ball on top of 60 gr's of 3F and I never had any problem putting deer down with that load. Some of the deer dropped in their tracks, the ones that didn't drop in their tracks I never had to trail more then 50 yards and those deer bleed like a stuck pig.

When I'm going hunting and the gun could be loaded for a couple days, I will put my powder down the barrel, then I will put some beehive material down the barrel, then a greased patched round all. The beehive material is waterproof and no moisture from the patch will get to the powder causing it to cake up.

When I'm going to be shooting right away (like the range) or reloading after shooting at a deer, I use spit for patch lube, I take a strip of pillow ticking (which is tied to the strap of my possible bag) and put the end of it in my mouth while putting powder down the barrel. Then I will put the wet end of the pillow ticking over the barrel with a ball on top of it, tap the ball into the barrel until it is flush with the muzzle, after that take a sharp patch knife (pocket knife will do) and cut the pillow ticking level with the muzzle. This way you have a perfectly cut patch with your round ball every shot.

The most important thing to remember when shooting a flintlock is the follow through of the shot and practice. When shooting a flintlock there is a delay, you might not notice it but there is. When most shooters of modern rifles shoot they tend to bring their gun down right after shooting and then they will do the same when shooting a flintlock creating a low shot, most deer are missed for this reason. When shooting the flintlock keep that gun up and see the shot through. The best way to learn this is to practice, practice and practice.

Will (Oldzimm) Zimmerman
Hunterman

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http://www.cabelas.com/product/Shooting/Black-Powder/Loading-Accessories|/pc/104792580/c/104701680/sc/104436180/RMC-Magnum-EC-Loader/740045.uts?destination=/catalog/browse/shooting-black-powder-loading-accessories/_/N-1100209

This is what my neighbors use when they muzzleloader hunt.
1st time at range
Cityhunter

I'm a 12 point buck on this forum.<br> My next goal is to become a Member of the Pabucks.com  Monster Buck Club.
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Location: Pittsburgh, PA

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Well, I went to the range and found out that I had a hard time getting the Triple 7 pellets to ignite. The first time I attempted to fire the rifle it was loaded with 150 grains (3 pellets) of Triple 7 and a 250 grain TC sabot round. I put 4F Goex powder in the pan. I found that the flint wasn't producing a good spark so I switched it out. Still no ignition. It was suggested by a guy on the range to use my touch hole pick to break up the pellets a little. I did that, then re-primed the pan. This time the rifle fired. I decided to try Goex 3f in the barrel instead of the pellets. The Goex 3f in the barrel fired on the first try. I stuck with that setup the remainder of the afternoon.
Anyway, I found that I must follow this procedure: Load 80 grains of 3f Goex powder into the barrel; ram the bullet; rotate the rifle to the left so that the pan is now elevated; using the pan primer, I would put powder directly into the touch hole; rotate the rifle to the right so tha pan is level, then prime the pan. The rifle then fired reliably and accurately. I know most of you are sitting there drinking your coffee saying, "Yeah dummy. We know." But that's the first time I fired a black powder gun. It was a blast. And I wanted to share in case some other new guy out there reads this.
The one thing I'm still struggling with is sighting in the rifle. The rifle has fiber optic sights. I zeroed at 25 yards, then moved to 50 yards. When I tried to make fine adjustments, I would slowly loosen the screw to allow me to move the rear sight for windage, but the sight wouldn't move. So I loosened it more, but then the sight was so loose that it moved all over the place. A buddy told me to mark the sight prior to moving it, but how fine of an adjustment can you make using a mark on the sight as a reference? I mean I haven't even tried to zero out to 100 yards yet. Any suggestions?
oldzimm

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Cityhunter I have been shooting in muzzleloader matches for thirty years and I picked up on a lot of things that make shooting those smokepoles easier. Now this may sound strange, but it is a fact, do not put powder in the flashole. The flash from the pan powder will go through the flashole quicker then burning powder does.

The only time I put powder in the flashole is when I'm at a match, after firing a lot of shots things are getting crusty in the breach of the barrel and it prevents my main powder charge from getting close enough to the flashole to receive the flash from the pan powder. Then I will push 4F powder through the flashole and shoot that shot into the backstop because there will be more of a delay do to the fact there is powder in the flashole. Then I give my gun a good cleaning and get back to the match. (muzzleloaders aren't low maintenance guns)

A little trick I picked up on is when I load my powder in my gun, I will tap the breach of the barrel to ensure that some powder from my main charge trickles to the flashole.

As far as zeroing in at 100 yards, you don't have to, if you are zeroed in at 25 yards that is good enough. All the people I know that shoot match, sight in at 25 yards. I don't know much about fiber optic sights, I use Iron sights. When shooting I use a six o'clock hold on my target, when I zero my rifle at 25 yards, I adjust my rear sights till I'm shooting a hair low (at least within 1/2 inch) then I will take a file to fine tune the sights by filing the front sight to bring the shot up.

I have a 54 cal. rifle that has fixed rear sites, I can adjust windage with the rear sights and once I get that right I'll take a hammer an punch to clamp the dovetail cut in the barrel tight to the sight. For up and down, I had to buy a big enough front sight so I could file it down to where I wanted it.

Our paper targets are at 25,50 and 100 yards and I aim right on for 25 an 50, at 100 I may aim two to three inch's high from bullseye but no more. We also have steal targets that go out to 175 yards, that is when you must know your gun and how much elevation to give it. With my fifty Cal., to hit the 175 yard targets (a bear about 4 ft. high standing on its hind legs), I aim about 10 inch's high, another words I aim for its head to hit it in the chest.

Will (Oldzimm) Zimmerman
fishjiming

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i use a 54 CAL renegade and it shoots the best at 80 grs. of 2f goex. patch and ball (so much easier to get down the barrel) shot deer out to about 80 yds with it. I always swirl the pick around in the touchhole to create a little pocket. and i only use about a half flash pan of 4f . and it goes off about as instant as a flintlock will go off. The main thing is keep it clean . weather it is 1 shot or more , if the barrel is empty clean the gun . Another thing i alway do before i load the gun the first time after cleaning is flashing the pan. gets any moisture or oil out of the touch hole and breach. good luck it is very addicting
primative hunter

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For a 50 cal flinter I use 75 gr of fffg goex black powder and a .490 round ball patched with .018 pillow ticking.


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Flintlock ammo and load?
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